(Thanks to Mark Morell to help me with the text of this page.)

How to Make a MANOLATOR!

(There are to versions of the interface…)

OPTION 1, if you have a Krystof Nys 64 ch. Interface:

Buy a pic16f88 and program it with this new code (Mplab source here). You can find the schematics and software of a pic programmer here. The pic is pin by pin compatible so replace the old pic16f84 by the programmed new pic16f88 and that’s all.

Shown are the schematics, that you can also find here, copyright of Kristof Nys (notice that to get the 256Ch. instead of 64 Ch. you must buy a pic16f88 instead of the pic16f84 that appear at the picture).

I have put all the stuff inside a parallel port 25 pin connector.

Here you can see an Usb Connector used to power the interface through the USB connector of the computer (use this feature at your own risk, because you can damage your computer!).

You can also power the interface by using the Ps2 connector, using a Ps2 male – Ps2 female extension cable.

This can be useful for a notebook with an extra Ps2 port.

Test all the schematics and be sure that it’s all ok before making a live connection.

OPTION 2, if you don’t have a Krystof Nys Interface:

First you must build your interface with shown schematics, that are a modification of the original circuit as a suggestion of Kristof Nys to take off the Xtal (the new pic has an internal Xtal option).

You must program the pic16f88 with the new no Xtal code (Mplab source here), which is not the same as above. You can find the schematics and software of a free pic programmer here.

STEP BY STEP GUIDE TO BUILD YOUR MANOLATOR:

		Prepare all the parts, be sure that you have all the things you need. Also you will need some tools and a soldering iron.
								This is a picture of all of the components, except the protoboard and the parallel port connector.
								Let’s start by opening the case of the parallel port connector. There is not too much space inside.
								So we must obtain more space by removing these little plastic pieces from both sides of the case.
								Here you can see the all those plastic pieces removed.
								Take a piece of paper and try to cut it as shown, to obtain the “shape” of the free space.
								Put the piece of paper on the protoboard and mark the shape with a cd marker.
								This is the line where to cut the protoboard.
								Cut out the shape with a saw.
								Once the shape has been cut out, you must file all the edges.
								Once complete, check if fits into the connector.
	Now we must take out two pins, as shown at the picture. Note the “U” reference at the top.
	Now put the two parts exactly as shown. Note were the “U” references are marked with a red circle.
	The next step is to start soldering. Green lines are the tie lines, unions at the soldering side that you must also do.
	Now you must do this bridge, green lines are the unions of the soldering side.
								Take a plain cable from an old computer (or buy some) and cut two pieces of 4 cables and a piece of 2 cables. Look at the schematics to understand what those are the 8 data cables and the two control signals.
						Use this picture as a soldering guide. Red dots are the two integrated circuits. Yellow line is the red cable that is on the opposite side. Purple dots are the grey plain cables that must to be connected to the parallel port connector. Green lines are the soldering unions that you must do on this side. Yellow dots are the capacitor. Blue dots are the 4 cables of the USB wire.
							Solder all the grey cables to the circuit before soldering it to the parllel connector.
				Here you can see the 3 grey plain cables. There is another one cable that must to be soldered, the GND.
				Here you can see this black GND cable between the grey cables (going to the pin25). You must solder all the cables to the correct pins of the parallel port connector. Look at the schematics as a guide. Leave one grey plain cable longer as shown to easily put in and take out the PIC to program it. Check again if all the unions of the soldering side are correct and also the PINS of the LPT connector.
								Now you must cut one of the two connectors off the USB to USB cable. Cut off the smaller USB connector (if your computer has the standard bigger one)
								Sorry I made a mistake. We need to start again so you need to glue everything back together... Only joking! Take the cover of the cable off to see the 4 cables that are inside: Red, Black, Green and White.
								In this case the RED is the positive and the Black is the negative. The other two cables (green and white) are the USB signal (check that they match). On the USB adaptor, the far left pin is negative, far right is the positive and the two central pins are the Usb signals. CAUTION! In the picture I am testing the black negative cable (don’t be confused by the red colour of the tester pin!)
								Now you must stripe the USB cable in the middle and then cut the 3 cables but not the positive one (red in my case), as shown.
								Now you will get this. Prepare the cables for soldering. The 4 cables that go to the interface (on the left). Then the 2 signal cables and the negative cable (next in the picture) that come from interface. Note that the negative cable is connected as a bridge to get the negative signal from the USB connector. Also note that the Positive (RED) is not cut. Finally note that the two signal USB cables (Green and White) are not connected and not pre-soldered.
								You now must solder the 4 cables on the interface. The order is Positive (RED), DMX “-“ signal (white), DMX “+” signal (Green) and Negative (Black). Check the schematics and the “soldering guide” picture to understand that.
								Now you must put the middle part of the USB cable inside the DMX connector, as shown.
								Put some tape to isolate the Red, Green and White cables, those that are not pre-soldered. Now you must solder the remaining 3 cables to the DMX connector. Black is the GND of the signal (Pin1), White is the DMX “-“signal (Pin2) and Green is the “+” DMX signal (Pin3). Pin numbers are referenced to a standard 5 Pin DMX connector.
					Now you must check for any short circuit in the power part of the interface, with an Ohmmeter. You can use the shown pins of the DMX driver to do it. CAUTION! If any short circuit in the power supply will cause damage to your computer. CAUTION! Don’t be confused by the colours of the tester pins as we are testing Ohms and not a voltage level, as we have not powered the circuit yet.
								We must use this system to protect the cable.
								No explanation needed
					Now (if you have not detected any shorts) is the moment to turn on your computer… Connect the USB connector to your computer and try to measure the voltage value as shown. If everything is correct, you must measure -5 volts. Note the minus sign before the 5 volts. Then disconnect the USB connector from the computer. (The reason for the minus is the position of the voltage meter pins I used when I took the picture) If your computer is still alive, you must now program the PIC, with the no Xtal code. You can find the schematics and the software of a free pic programmer here.
			Now that your PIC is programmed, you can attach the rest of the components, remembering the “U” reference of the integrated circuits.
			The finished soldering side of the interface must match with this picture, if you are using the “soldering guide” picture above.
								The only thing left now is to replace the parallel port connector cover.
								Then you can test your interface with the Free software on this site. Congratulations if you have made it this far! “…you have made the ultimate cheapest dmx interface.” (Kristof Nys words)